After spreading out a bountiful beauty harvest for us at Barneys New York, resident guru Jason Ascher still had a few valuable tips up his sleeve. As a veteran of working at such influential beauty brands as Bobbi Brown, Chanel, NARS and Chantecaille, Ascher knows exactly what it takes to seamlessly transition your beauty routine into fall.
A primary skincare concern is moving from breakouts (caused by the sweltering heat) to dryness (caused by the lack of moisture in the air). Ascher noted not to fight the changing elements and to change from lighter, oil-free SPF lotions to heavier moisturizers that still contain SPF. Just because it’s not hot out does NOT mean you won’t get UV damage from the sun. In fact, Ascher recommended a bare minimum of 30 SPF for daily use on your face, claiming the oft-used SPF 15 just won’t cut it in shielding your skin properly.
For skin that’s oily prone and still in fear of breakouts, Asher explained thick moisturizers do not need to cover the entire face. If need be, tap the cream onto areas where it’s needed most such as wind-chapped cheeks, around the nose and chin or anywhere that may be prone to dryness. Even when applied top of makeup (and that’s ok!), a moisturizer is essential to making it through a brisk, autumn day.
And speaking of brisk, Asher warned us of the common myths associated with cleansing in cold weather. “Don’t exfoliate!”, he practically shouted. Exfoliating scrubs are too abrasive for your face, especially when it’s at it’s most delicate during the cold weather months. Nourish and protect your skin while sloughing off dead skin with gentle facial pads that contain retinol or fruit acids like Radical Skincare. Also, when you’ve done all you can and crave the soft touch of a professional, Asher says facials are a great way to pamper yourself and detoxify, though no need to go overboard. According to his dermatologist, if you have a good skincare regimen, facials can be done at the “top of every season”. So at the most, four times a year.
Finally, when asked for his top three must-have products of the season, Ascher reiterated the need for SPF (see? We weren’t kidding!) and recommended his personal favorite as Chantecaille’s Ultra Sun Protection SPF 50 PA+++, which I can only guess packs a solid SPF punch! Along with sun protection, Ascher also listed that women shouldn’t live without a good tinted moisturizer since it’s the perfect hybrid of moisture and foundation coverage without being too heavy. And finally, a reliable lip balm to keep those pouts their prettiest. Asher prefers the hydrating and healing properties of Rodin Olio Lusso Lip Balm and By Terry’s Baume de Rose.
For fall makeup, it is – pardon the pun – a mixed bag. Makeup trends are not as sharply defined each season as they are in fashion. Ascher explained that no one line follows just one trend, instead each line picks trends that are meaningful or relevant to that brand and play with it. Ascher named his personal favorites to try for fall are a cool navy blue eye, defined in either shadow, liner or mascara, and a bright fuchsia lip. “Go bold with your lip colors!, ” he advised.
Speaking of lips, dark lips are especially popular for fall and winter and when asked how to perfect it, Ascher stressed to stay away from glossy, “sloppy” finishes. For the perfect matte look, he recommended using a primer first to keep the color in place, either a lip primer or a face primer would work. Then choose a color that isn’t “greasy, shiny or oily” and apply the color with a brush instead of from the tube. Be sure to make the edges neat with a liner that’s either the same color as the lipstick or a slightly browner version of the color. Once the application is finished, blot and then apply a bit more color. For touch-ups, simply pat the color directly onto the area instead of swiping the brush across the entire lip. What you’ll get from all your hard work is a perfectly sculpted, stay-proof stain that will keep you grinning all night long.
And just like you take the utmost care of your face, Ascher reminded us we should all be taking equal pains to preserve the youth of our brushes. When he asked the group how often we wash our brushes there was a deafening silence – not a good sign. But apparently, the process is easier than we all suspect, especially since a common everyday cleaner can be used as a handy aid. Ascher suggested using Dawn dishwashing liquid to clean brushes, preferably once a week for utmost longevity. He even mentioned that brushes exposed to thick products like cream blushes and concealer should be washed twice a week. Eek!
For his parting words to us, Ascher voiced his stance on beauty for special occasions like weddings in four simple words: go to a professional. As one himself, Ascher believes fully in the power of the expert knowing best in terms of coloring, trends, seasons, and any other variable that comes into play for the big day. When asked on the most notable DIY bride of the year, Kate Middleton, he didn’t mince words. “I think she could have softened things up a little. There could have been things I would have done differently, based on the fact it was on video and it was such a large venue with, I’m sure, very bold lights.” There already are elements we never would have thought of! Not that I needed convincing but Ascher made a compelling argument that, when you want to look your best, always put yourself in the hands of those who know best. Amen.
And New York’s beauties can put themselves in Jason Ascher’s knowing hands whenever they like. Ascher’s styling and personal shopping appointments are free and his studio is located at Barneys New York, 575 5th Avenue. A big thank you to Barneys and Jason Ascher for sharing his wealth of knowledge with us. Now let’s have a bright and beautiful fall!
Photo Source: Second City Style