The first DKNY collection since Donna Karan stepped down as Chief Designer hit the runway at New York Fashion Week on Wednesday. Taking the reigns instead were design duo Dao-yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne or collectively known as Public School. What I appreciated about these new-comers is that they stayed true to the DKNY brand by offering up sleek separates with perfect detailing and finishes that represents attainable fashion for the everyday women; however, they offered it up with a twist.
The collection showcased mostly suiting and menswear inspired pieces with oversized and boxy fits. The looks were more like deconstructed suits and tuxedos and featured full on pinstripe double and single-breasted jackets, overcoats, and dresses. Asymmetrical hems and detailing on many of the pieces were almost origami-like and were featured in the form of single-sided skirts and vests with skewed buttons and ties. The majority of the collection seemed to create an androgynous feeling as most of the pieces had simple necklines, strong shoulders and long hemlines.
Black, white and gray dominated the runway show with only a few standout pieces in blue including a shockingly sheer long-sleeved midi length dress and a sleeveless shift dress in a beautifully printed blue graphic. Overall, these new-comers have some big shoes to fill, but I think they are well on their way to keeping the DKNY brand on top as the collection was clean, bold and definitely strong.
– Carmen N. Turner
Photos: NYmag
