Summary: Behnaz Sarafpour‘s AW12 collection and presentation has been one of my favorite experiences at fashion week thus far. I love the excitement of a runway show, but when it comes to examining and dissecting the intricacies and techniques behind a collection’s design, the presentation route is unquestionably the way to go. Especially for a designer like Behnaz Sarafpour, whose sensational design skill is best viewed up close and personal, and not drowned in a runway show saturated with eager cell phone users and thumping music.
In a word, Sarafpour’s fall collection is stunning. The nineteen looks featured luxe textiles that were rife with exacted pleating, moments of thin piping that gave chic, elegant definition to otherwise classic shapes, and shimmery metallic fabrics than transformed simply shaped dresses into goddess-worthy gowns. Unlike other designers, who limit themselves to certain palettes based on expected notions of a season’s coloring, Sarafpour’s restricted use of black, cream, camel, gold, grey and a momentary pop of red is an intuitive choice. It represents timeless and eternal glamour — hearkening back to the unparalleled heights of American sophistication in the 1920s and 30s in a way that is divinely modern.
Photos do not do this collection justice — experiencing this presentation was one of those moments where you knew you were a part of something truly special that couldn’t possibly be replicated, or understood through reiteration. In the olden days, when couture reigned, fashion thrilled because it was the ultimate luxury. It was difficult to obtain and replete with meaning, artistry, and elegance. Sarafpour reminds us that it is possible to come back to that in a way that meets contemporary needs. And that’s a reminder of which we should all take heed.
Colors: Camel, black, rouge, bronze, black, gold, amber, grey, ivory.
Fabrics and textures: Wool, cashmere, stretch cotton, key holes, two tone, contoured, basket weaving, lurex, lace, crystal embroidery, tulle, zigzag pleats, jersey, velvet, toscana shearling, embroidery, organza, taffeta, corsetting, fringe, stripes, nylon peplum, guipure, silk pique.
Key looks: Camel couture wool little jacket with a black cashmere keyhole sweater and camel stretch cotton contour pants; Black toscana shearling jacket with a black embroidered organza long shirt and black taffeta sunburst skirt; Gold basket weave sheath dress.
— Amanda Aldinger