The rumors were true. Marco Zanini has been appointed the new creative director at the recently resurrected house of Rochas. According to WWD, SpA president Franco Penè said the revamped brand will be anything but a “bonfire of the vanities.”
“We’re not looking to generate editorial hype, because we’re thinking of a sensibly priced luxury brand that caters to the everyday needs of women,” said Penè. “In other words, real clothes that are useful and beautiful. Zanini understands that we don’t want to be a status brand.”
The Italian designer who recently left Halston after a two season stint, will debut his first effort in Paris in March for fall 2009.
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“We liked his sensibility, his penchant for daywear and the fact that he will be fully dedicated to the line without having to divide his energy with a namesake collection,” acknowledged Penè.
Prior to its closure, Rochas was designed by Olivier Theyskens (now at Nina Ricci), Penè is critical of the recent explosion of logoed and entry–price products championed by top-tier brands to target a larger consumer base. “We want to do the opposite of what luxury multinationals are doing,” said Penè. So they are aiming at no more than 200 sales points worldwide.
Favoring craftsmanship over showmanship in terms of brand positioning, Penè wants the clothes to exude an artisanal feeling. “We want to re-create a work method similar to the one adopted by artisans who worked on every single piece,” said Penè.