The Lure of Subdued Luxury – Paris Fashion Week RTW Fall 2008

The Lure of Subdued Luxury - Paris Fashion Week RTW Fall 2008

The Lure of Subdued Luxury - Paris Fashion Week RTW Fall 2008

Sun, 2008-03-02 03:00
Amy Ko

In line with the fashion week weariness in the Western world, Paris Fashion Week wove a dark tale. While some dabbled in optimism, like Dior, most decided to play it safe and opt for black, ebony and deep hues with accents of color, or perhaps even the shine of patent for the season’s conservative decadence.
Christian LaCroix: If there is any exuberance this season it’s not found in the optimism of a past decade or the fantasy of the future. Instead, it’s found in the contrast of dark and bright and the ageless charm and energy of metallics. Lacroix used beautiful, along with the deep, hypnotic charm of patent to make his collection uncompromising.
Karl Lagerfeld: In his very moody collection Lagerfeld stuck with a classic palette; black and navy, to create a foundation for his collection. Color made a guest appearance under the pinnings of a single black ensemble. Instead, Lagerfeld used details like sequins and bowties to make his collection distinctive. Still, there was a bit of lackluster that plagued the ensembles — certainly classic minus a certain reliable chic.
Balenciaga: Each year Balenciaga gives editors something interesting to show and usually act as the boundary for what’s wearable and memorable. This year, however, there was a lack of fecundity and femininity that made the collection’s somewhat androgynous overtones just a bit much. The definitive shapes that started the show were exciting but the later layered ensembles relied on an 80’s arrogance that was less about luxury and beauty and more about smug indulgence.
Photos: New York Magazine

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