What a difference a year makes. The highly anticipated freshman line by new Nina Ricci designer Olivier Theyskens (designer for recently shuttered Rochas) was different than last year’s collection by Lars Nilsson to say the least. Instead of the ultra feminine glam we have come to expect from the house, Theyskens pushed the boundaries of femininity to appeal to a younger audience. In some cases it worked and in others it fell short.
For one thing, zipper biker jackets, twisted drapping and down are not very ‘Ricciesque’. However, some of the gowns were pretty spectacular and looked ike they were literally floating (on the wings of birds). Theyskens even had the same down feathers that lined some of the gowns melded into the hair of the models wearing them. For the more casual looks, the feather hats resembled birds perched dead (literally) center on their heads.
Additionally the color palette of dove gray, slate, charcoal and denim was pretty somber. However there were a couple of yellow and white dresses and the season’s must-have, metallic silver to brighten thing up.