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Summary: As models marched down the runway of the Louis Vuitton show in fringed footwear and enormous Afro wigs, Marc Jacobs' influence on Louis Vuitton has never been stronger. The collection, awash in overstatement, is difficult to define as it culls from a wide variety of looks and eras: athletic, military, the outdoors, 60s, 70s and 80s chic. Each look is layered elaborately: printed biker shorts are paired with babydoll dresses and oversized messenger bags; beaded hippie looks are shown alongside pocketed army shirts and fringed Native American-inspired bags; tennis dresses are draped in toggles and drawstrings and sports mesh. Although intricately designed and visually elaborate, it's difficult to place a throughline in Jacobs' collection, which unfortunately results in the majority of the collection melding into a singular hodge-podge of patterns and "stuff." As Tim Gunn would say, "it's a whole lotta look." Jacobs says that the Louis Vuittion collection is "about travelers—the movement that came after punk. Then we were thinking about hiking, trekking, and then denim and parkas—city utilitarianism." Jacobs has mastered overdesign in the past, and will undoubtedly continue to do so in the future. But this season, his traveling inspiration went a little bit too far – hiking itself off the runway and over the heads of most of his audience.
– Amanda Aldinger
Photos: WWD
