Korean designer, Son Jung Wan is not a New York Fashion Week novice. Well known in Korea, she has shown in the tents for several seasons now and with each collection, her aesthetic has remained consistent yet has evolved with the silhouettes reflective of the season. She has proven to be one of the designers on the forefront of trend-spotting by combining just the right mix of hard and soft throughout her collections.
This year was no exception, with her spring/summer 2015 collection entitled “Dualism.” The inspiration for the collection stemmed from her interpretation of the mixing and matching of contrasting elements; Yin and Yang. As the various looks made their way down the runway, you immediately noticed the juxtaposition of the hard, unfinished edge details and substantial fabrics against the soft silhouettes that echoed both masculine and feminine. The use of sequins, soft meshes and other unexpected fabrics like hemp provided a refreshing break from what the typical onlooker would expect from a spring/summer collection.
The jewel-tones provided a rich color story and included magenta, jungle green and saturated blues as well as the expected spring colors of opal, chalky white, and neutral beige. However, the use of gold and other metallic fabrics for seaming, panels and color-blocking provided an unexpected contrast to the rich color palette. Shift dresses and separates were the standouts in the show and focused largely on the meticulous details that made each piece unique. Cut outs, interesting necklines, and asymmetrical seams and detail were the features of many of the pieces which also included a collection of menswear styles.
The collection has a very organic and almost visceral feeling. Though the silhouettes were classic with a twist, the fabric and color choices proved to be bold and the detailing and finishes strayed from other collections that skew towards the perceived whimsy that can be associated with springtime.
– Carmen N. Turner
Photos: NY Magazine