New York Fashion Week Fall 09. Andy & Debb: Still Emerging

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Summary: Women's Wear Daily quotes designers Andy Kim and Debb Yoon as saying, "The butterfly, the symbol of beauty, mystery and new karma, is portrayed in the signature minimal and romantic look of our collection." I say that the collection was evocative of butterflys by being pretty, but erratic. Wing-shaped bustiers recurred on jumpsuits and atop sweaters, and, as elsewhere on the runway, menswear-inspired looks like blazers paired with skinny pants contrasted with drapey, softly-tailored pieces. Autumnal colors like forest green, marigold and plum were crammed together with peaches and seafoam and a (beautiful) washed-out butterfly-wing print reminiscent of stained glass. While I thought the show lacked cohesion, individual pieces are lovely and wearable. And my favorite detail? Leather pirate-style fencing gloves, which manage to look tough and romantic all at once.

Color Palette: white, silver, seafoam green, forest green, black

Fabrics & Textures: taffeta, wool, wing-shaped details, ruffles and soft pleats

Key Looks: high collar circular hem jacket paired with side draped skinny pants; herringbone coat over metallic-coated linen pleated bubble dress; open-front jacket over magnified butterfly-wing print bubble top and taffeta pants

– Becky Ellis

Photos: WireImage

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