Summary: After a few years away from the Fashion Week circuit, and post a split with co-designer Cindy Greene, Johnson Hartig has brought Libertine back to life with an incredible Fall RTW collection — dominated by a psychedelic explosion of color and pattern, and an energetic array of textures in a standout presentation for both women and menswear.
Although an extremely graphic aesthetic permeated the entire collection, Hartig was in an anything goes moment this fall, embellishing his knits and tweeds with sequins, exploring a color palette which made effective use of every possible gradation of color, and, above all, perfecting each look down to the most minute detail. The 1960s were clearly an inspiration, as seen in the many classic shift dresses styled alone, or paired with Chanel-inspired tweed jackets and A-lined coats. The classic silhouettes held their own, modernizing well in their painted hues representing the world’s most sartorial acid trip.
Hartig did not shy away from exploding his concept into menswear, replicating the rainbow graphics of his womenswear in a more monochromatic grey palette, complete with shorts, sweatpants, and gorgeously lined black and grey plaid suits. Despite the similarities in pattern between the men and womenswear, there was an urban edge to Hartig’s menswear — an aesthetic that comfortably rivaled the playfulness of his womenswear.
Throughout the collection, both men’s and women’s looks were complete with knit gloves boasting the same striped graphics emulated in the clothing. Fitting in nicely with the men’s suits and sweatpants, this playful hipsterized accessory brought a heightened edge to the bombast exhibited in the collection’s exploration of color, shape and texture.
In all, an incredible collection that is truly a visual standout for this year’s fashion week. Needless to say, although Libertine may not have necessarily gone anywhere, Johnson Hartig, we’re glad you’re back.
Color Palette: royal blue, cerulean, black, charcoal, golden yellow, vermilion, beige, cream, burgundy, pale pink, fuschia, rose, sea-foam green, white, baby blue, orange, teal, lime green, hot pink, red, blue-green, saffron, chocolate brown, pale yellow, mustard yellow, tan, cinnamon, violet red, sky blue, turquoise, powder blue, coral
Fabrics and Textures: tweed, knit, lycra, cotton, wool, silk, graphic print, crystals, embroidery, quilted, organdy, wool boucle, plaid, graphic printing, applique embellishments, embroidery
Key Looks: fuschia and black dyed short-sleeved shift dress with bold graphic patterning, black and grey striped tights, black platform heels; two-button cream A-line coat with three-quarter length sleeves and cerulean blue striped graphic patterning over a golden yellow shift with black striped graphics, grey and black printed tights and blue and cream oxford lace-up platform heels; blue and red graphic patterned button up blouse with extravagantly voluminous puff sleeves, a red tie belt, and charcoal ankle-length trouser pants with white patterning across the hips, black socks, and burgundy and cream lace-up oxford heels.
— Amanda Aldinger