Summary: Bibhu Mohapatra‘s SS13 collection was inspired by “the prophetic symbolism of the Luna moth [celebrating] the evolution and transformation of an ever-intuitive Bibhu woman.” This was communicated in a signature “morph” print – the leitmotif of this collection – a geometric kaleidoscope of sorts, that expanded out from peplum blouses, skirts, sporty jackets and sexy body-con dresses. A less literal, more expansive version of this motif came from a metallic filigree that saturated different garments in a woven, glittery pattern that provided a gorgeous accent to many of his looks – particularly a floor-length ivory crepe evening gown with long sleeves and sheer filigree-embroidered panels. Without question, it is the gowns that stole the show in this collection. Their patterned, layered and draped designs embraced the thematic element of evolution, and the metamorphosis of a moth, in a way that was less literal and far more timeless than the bright cobalt patterns which marked the first half of the collection. The morph print will last a season, if that, but Mohapatra’s gowns could happily make their way to a moment on a red carpet. In this case, the less literal the better. It’s fashion’s ultimate battle: trends vs. timeless. Mohapatra simply gave us a collection that thematically experimented with both.
Colors: White, cobalt, steel, chartreuse, black, azure, onyx, ivory, beige, coral, sand, sea green, aquamarine, antique silver, dust rose, gold, blush, champagne, alabaster
Textures and Fabrics: Peplum, morph print, georgette, devoree draping, cut outs, filigree, sheer, leather, applique, dye dipping, embroidery, chiffon, flare, silk, pleating, organza, lace, draping, twisting, sequins
Key Looks: Cobalt morph print top worn with white carbon cigarette pants; Black cut out leather peplum jacket worn with black devoree shard applique top and beige filigree embroidered pixie pants; asymmetric gold filigree and ivory crepe gown; chartreuse and sand organza gown with cutout shards and hand-pleated skirt
– Amanda Aldinger