Summary: “A study of seduction and restraint,” is one of the ways the Herve Leger Fall’ 12 collection was described in the show’s program. But judging from the leather accoutrements and tough gold hardware, we were inclined to think that description was more of a euphemism. Designer Max Azria wanted to channel feminine strength and the brute force of horses through this equestrian-themed aesthetic. each look came wrapped with a leather harness belt in either black or blue and fastened with strong metal bolts. The look was definitely strong, if not severe, against the second skin fabric of his signature bandage dresses. But, call us crazy, we just couldn’t get a strong sexual overtone out of our heads. It looked predominantly like an S&M showcase.
But if you were able to look behind the bondage-y accessories, there were other elements that stood out. Fur sleeves fastened to jackets, one of the most popular accenst this season, were done in a luxe, glossy way, perhaps to add to Azria’s intended equestrian theme. Another material that channeled a horse’s mane and which looked amazing walking down the runway were the fringe sleeves, tops and skirts toward the end of the collection. This overt sense of movement was a departure from Azria’s usual Herve Leger aesthetic and it pushed the collection into edgier, more fashion forward territory. Also, the heavier use of print on the bandage dress was a welcome change from the past few seasons of plainer, neutral-toned pieces. We’re still holding out for a Herve Leger pants suit one these days but until then, we like the direction Azria is steadily steering Herve Leger into. Even if they are a bit kinky.
Color Palette: black, rock/blue sapphire, black/gravel, bare, cognac, alabaster, brown, light brown, corozo, rustic red, raisin, rose gold, gold, champagne, kale, red ombre, blush, diamond-pattern, snake-print, leopard-print
Fabrics and Textures: leather, python, beaded detail, pleated bandage, chain, jacquard, gold hardware, fringe
Key Looks: Black leather harness belt, Black diamond-pattern bandage dress, Light Brown Fur Vest, Rose gold chain jacquard bandage dress, Cognac leather harness belt, Kale printed ombre bandage dress, Brown leather stamped python fringe jacket, Black fringe bandage dress with beaded detail, Cognac leather peep-toe bootie, Black leopard-print box clutch
–Alia Rajput
Photos: NYMag
