Summary: How does one take the fierce essence of a samurai warrior and the demure elegance of a geisha, and concoct a perfectly cohesive idea? Why, the master of fashion storytelling of course, Carmen Marc Valvo. Adept at spinning tales as easily as the threads on his garments, Valvo loves to juxtapose different eras, themes and ideas. This season, he paired the masculinity of a samurai’s armor — simulated through chain embroidered panels and lace insets — with the soft origami folds and voluminous proportions of a feminine kimono. “Folded origami layers of organza begging to be caressed by gentles breezes,” reads the traditional pre-program poem. Yet instead of taking the theme too literally, the Asian-inspired influence fell gracefully in frothy, crumb-catcher layers and pleated peplum folds. And the common thread that ran throughout was this sense of belted protection, both to “protect the extremities” and to “adorn breasts and waists.”
But besides the usual sense of drama that resonated in the layers of evening wear, Valvo’s collection of separates were some of the most modern and wearable I’ve ever seen. The belted peplum tops were sheer genius, as were the cropped linen pants. These pieces were fresh, current, wearable. For someone who’s prowess lies mostly in the glam realm, it’s refreshing to see pared down pieces that can easily for from day to evening. And the electric jolts of poppy red and cobalt blue that broke up the mostly black and white palette reminded us that fire and ice can sometimes make beautiful music together.
Colors: Parchment, Black, Ivory, Red Lacquer, Cobalt, Pewter, Silver Metallic, Poppy, Jade, Kimono patterned, Floral printed
Fabrics and Textures: Silk brocade, guipere lace, silk, linen, chain, silk gazar, silk satin, lace lace glass, sequins, satin faced organza, Hakama folded, silk organza, double faced wool chain embroidered, Origami folded, silk pique, beaded, ruffled, kimono wrapped
Key Looks: Ivory silk corset, Parchment Chantilly lace Kimono blouse, Black linen pant with chain stitching embroidery, Cobalt silk gazar peplum waist jacket, Cobalt silk gazar with Origami fold cocktail dress, Black one shoulder maillot with lace inset, Jade lacquer silk brocade dress, Ivory lace gown with chain embroidery and ruffle detail, Black silk organza Hanbok blouse, Cobalt silk gazar peplum waist detail gown with lace inset
Photo Source: WWD