Fashion. Forget About the Runway: Lessons from Fashion Week's Front Row Seats
Anna Wintour
Averyl Oates
Elizabeth Walker
Gala Geddes
Nicola Rose
Paula Reed
Sam Conti
Sarah Clark
Sophie Neophitou
Suzy Menkes
Trish Halpin
People have odd ideas about fashion editors– that they are all a size 2, that they look perfect all the time and that they have an entourage of people making sure they look flawless 24/7. And they’re right. Just kidding. Editors are “real” women, as are models BTW and while models ought to be thin enough to display clothing, it’s the editors who decide what’s worth buying or at least enjoying.
And while many of us can translate our love of color, fabric and invention into something interesting
Photos: London Times– full article below
Trench coats
The humble trench is the fashion world’s cockroach: no matter what you do to
get rid of it, it keeps scuttling back. Anna Wintour’s experience in the
outerwear department shows. Although she resides in New York, she is only
too aware of the capriciousness of London and Milan’s biggest style
influence, the weather. Faced with the prospect of an unexpected deluge,
what else can the editor-in-chief of American Vogue do but shelter
under a patent splash-proof mac? (Lest we forget, it also makes it easier to
wipe off PETA’s custard pies.)
In Style’s Trish Halpin sticks to the traditional beige at, surprise,
surprise, the Aquascutum show. There’s a woman who knows about British
heritage and isn’t ashamed to show it.
Yet neither the devilish powerhouse of fashion, nor the editor of a UK glossy
can match the pure delight of Sophia Neophitou, editor-in-chief of 10
Magazine. You couldn’t prise that coat off her with a Swarovski
crystal-encrusted crowbar. Whether the trench is the only item of clothing
Neophitou really cares about is a question only she can answer, but who
cares when the coat speaks volumes by itself?
Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief, US Vogue; Trish Halpin, editor, In
Style and Sophia Neophitou, editor-in-chief, 10 Magazine
Plum and berry shades
Forget black. Forget navy. Forget it’s-dull-however-you-look-at-it grey. This
season the fashion cognoscenti have been sampling fruits of the forest for
colour inspiration.
Granted, they may not be as intellectual a style source as Jackson Pollock or
Dadaism, but blackberry, plum and damson are the kind of rich, full-bodied,
melt-in-the-mouth sartorial flavours that the style crew cannot resist
swirling through their wardrobe this winter.
If you doubt the fun quota of purple, just look at the smiles on these
experts’ faces. Grazia’s Paula Reed is overjoyed at the end of
the LBD era – it’s all about the LPD (little plum dress) in Milan. Averyl
Oates looks pleased with herself, and no wonder. With ruching, a look-at-me
zip and the colour of the season, she kills three birds with one dress.
Suzy Menkes, meanwhile, is in a self-congratulatory mood. She combines her
trademark quiff with a violet coat equally as headline-making. And nota
bene, the lesson in statement dressing: let one piece do the talking.
The trenchcoat may say “come capture me, wily paparazzo” but the trousers and
pumps are deep enough into practical territory to take this editor from
front row to front row without a crease, a blister, or (heaven forbid) a
canapé spill in sight.
Suzy Menkes, fashion editor, International Herald Tribune; Paula
Reed, style director, Grazia and Averyl Oates, buying director,
Harvey Nichols
Prints
If there’s a way to put off the onset of seasonal affective disorder, then the
floral dress, a symbol of the summer that never arrived, does the trick.
In a floaty shirt dress, Sam Conti has taken flower power beyond its hippy
origins. Yes, you can wear small flowers and look important/powerful/ in
charge of an influential department, if you carry a laptop and a practical
bag.
Nicola Rose, meanwhile, has taken advantage of the intellectual potential of a
dress, picking a pattern evoking the rigid lines of Piet Mondrian. She may
not be fully aware that her Marni dress is a walking interpretation of
neo-plasticist geometric abstraction, but she looks like an authority on
something. Minimalist accessories, perhaps? A woman who keeps all her needs
in her pocket has to be admired.
Nicola Rose, fashion director, Red Sam Conti, London bureau chief, Women’s
Wear Daily
Animal skin
Even if all big cats were under threat of extinction, fashion editors would be
reluctant to give up their animal skin. The leopard is the most fashionable
species, with innumerable displays on the front row.
It’s not a trend to underestimate, as Theresa May can tell you. Her
leopard-print shoes and now her wellington boots have received more
attention than the policies at Tory party conferences, and the fashion pack
is equally tuned in to its power for propaganda: “I may be in approachable
black but my leopard jacket says don’t get too close or I might bite.”
Sarah Clark may not remember Coronation Street’s Bet Lynch, but she certainly
has her predilection for leopard print, adding a welcome dose of class with
black opaque tights. Head-to-toe animal skin should be reserved for two
occasions: the safari and the pantomime. Play it safe by restricting animal
influences to one piece. You hardly notice Gaia Geddes’s ensemble when her
bag purrs with such self-confidence. Mi-aow.
Elizabeth Walker, executive fashion and beauty editor, Marie Claire;
Gaia Geddes, executive fashion and jewellery editor, Harper’s Bazaar;
Sarah Clark, fashion editor at Glamour