Oscar de la Renta was fashion royalty and the SS16 collection designed by newcomer to the fashion house Peter Copping proved that even though de la Renta has left us, his fashion legacy lives on. The collection featured 59 looks composed of rich and lavish pieces that had strong Spanish and boudoir inspirations. If the collection needed to been summed up in one word, I’d choose “romantic.” Spanning all style options including separates and suiting, evening dresses, day dresses, skirts, outwear and even a cape, the collection featured deep hues and ravishing textures like lace, jacquard, fringe and intricate applique.
As past collections for the fashion house tended to focus on the more mature set, this collection maintained a sense of youth and vibrancy with the playful ruffles, slim silhouettes and skin-bearing sheer lace. The selection of day dresses bordered on edgy with the use of mixed prints, beading and sexy necklines. The mindful use of taffeta and lace in bold tiered skirts, high necklines and full length red carpet gowns helped maintained the drama to the collection without it being too theatrical and over-the-top.
The separates also were swoon-worthy with suit jackets displaying sloping shoulders and full sleeves, structured shrunken jackets and even a denim blazer with a velvet tie front all paired with classic pencil skirts with a bit of added flair. The color story was daring with the majority of the pieces in the collection featuring ruby red but was complimented by emerald green, yellow, navy, black and white, and a pop of pink. Floral print, lace, embroidery, tulle, and denim all gave the collection range as to not pigeon-hole it into one central genre.
Some of my favorite looks in the collection included the ruby red lace long sleeved top paired with a horizontal pin-tucked white and ruby floral printed skirt, the emerald green silk taffeta suit with a contrasting white belt, and the pink taffeta ball gown with a black lace high ruffled neck.
– Carmen N. Turner
New York Fashion Week SS16: Oscar de la Renta's Dramatic Romanticism
September 16, 2015