Phillip Lim certainly knows how to dress the ladies for the urban jungle! His SS16 collection created a safari chic vibe that set itself apart from other collections by showcasing a strong point of view but still incorporating the spring trends that have spanned this New York Fashion Week. Lim is known for his solid pieces and keen attention to detail and this collection didn’t stray, with all 51 looks going deep into his theme and displaying everything from intricate seaming, belted details, mixed prints, asymmetrical hems and accessories like headwraps, clutches, totes, fantastic sandals and mid-shaft boots.
Another Lim signature is his use of deconstruction, asymmetry and menswear inspired silhouettes, which were also on display here. This included the use of subtle cut outs in some of his outerwear pieces, tops and dresses, large ruffles in mixed patterns, and boxy tops and over-sized jackets scattered throughout the collection. Layering also was a huge styling part of the collection, as many of the looks featured multiple pieces such as crop tops layered under full jackets, cropped jackets over full blouses, long-sleeved shirts layered under sleeveless tops or dresses and long tunics paired with shorts or skirts.
One of my favorite things about the collection was the rich and lush look and use of fabrics. His mixture of using decadent fabrics to create the billowy and oversized bomber style jackets, palazzo pants, shorts and dresses kept the collection from looking overly masculine or too menswear-like. The use of floral embroidery, ruffles, stripes and pops of metallic also kept the collection from looking too dark and stormy. Finally just a quick note on the color story, Lim stuck with what was expected for the theme at hand with army green, tan, white, navy, and black playing the leading role, but also kept it interested by incorporating some ice blue and mustard yellow in supporting roles. Overall the collection proved why Phillip Lim is one of my favorite ready-to-wear designers.
–Carmen N. Turner
Photos: NYmag
