Summary: Leave it to Alexandre Herchcovitch to surprise us. Known for his bold and bright prints, Herchcovitch did a 180 and sent a print free and dark, muted collection down the runway. There was a jolt of yellow (it looked more chartreuse from where I was sitting) in the form of silk and lace here and there, but otherwise the collection was dark. His focus was on dimension, texture and fabric manipulation. Herchcovitch was inspired this season by Volcanic rocks, magma and rock sediment. The yellow lace was to appear as if it were exploding out of delicate cracks. The look was almost gothic at times, with a series of black wool hooded dresses and coats, which after a couple seemed a little redundant. I could not believe Herchovitch used grey knit shawl color coats and jackets with pearls? What show was this again? What really blew me away were the dramatic wool coats with buckles at the arms that kept the models almost starightjacketed. I was intrigued. Is it wearable? Who knows, but it was so refreshing to see a designer finally push the creative envelope a bit this season.
Aside from the intriguing collection everyone was talking about the breathtaking side braids that looked almost woven into the model's hair. Bumble & bumble really came up with a very unique look you would just love to recreate, but know you can't. And then there were the volcano inspired light-reflecting sculpted Lava clutches that were actually acrylic resin bags. Wow. They are available for purchase now at ahalife.com.
Color Palette: yellow, grey, black
Fabrics & Textures: silk chiffon, silk satin, cashmere, wool, lace
Key Looks: shawl collar grey knit coat with pearls; black lamb pantsuit with bits of yellow silk; yellow silk belted dress; grey with black straightjacket coat; black wool dress with black lace arms; hooded black wool dress with waist lace; long black wool gown with yellow lace arms.
– Lauren Dimet Waters